The Sleepy town and Tigers

There is nothing very remarkable about the city of Pilibhit, nestled in the trijunction of Uttar Pradesh, Nepal and Uttarakhand. My visit to the city, home of my maternal uncle "mama" is usually about good food and merry times. But this time there was a surprise package waiting for me.

Skyline of Pilibhit

My uncle owns a farmhouse which is almost at edge of the city where farmlands gradually merge with dense forest of Mala, part of Terai region Pilibhit tiger Reserve a home to more than fifty tigers. This recently created tiger Reserve is notorious for human-animal conflict where the price paid is many times of human life. 

Entry Gate of Tiger Reserve

Hut Inside Tiger Reserve

In the evening while getting ready for a stroll we got a call from neighbouring farmer about tiger sighting near the farmhouse. We five people immediately hoped into our car to reach the spot. While on our way to the countryside, sun was slowly setting and so were our chance to get a view of the majestic beast.

Our Bumblebee 

As we reached the forest check-post we were greeted by the farmer boy who had called us. He joined and guided us to a muddy road passing through the village towards the last of farm fields merging into the thick forest. The road was adorned with deep potholes a mark of tractors treading the pathway during monsoon season. Our SUV slowly maneuvered through these potholes in the vision of twilight.

At the Checkpost

Our Farmer Guide

Fields Merging into Jungle

 
As we reached the spot there were almost 15-20 forest official present to watch the movement of tigress. Their duty was to dissuade the tigress from entering the village area and to push her back into the jungle. Often in the summer season due to easy availability of water in farm fields the tigers venture out here for water and prey. At that time she was resting in a sugarcane field with her killed prey. The sugarcane field was next to a fallow field lying adjacent to the road, making it second field to the road. 

Watch Towers; A common feature in the area

A tractor of forest guards customized with iron mesh for protection against tiger was guarding the tigress at the beginning of sugarcane field. After repeated requests to the forest official we were allowed to enter the field to go near the tigress. We moved ahead in the car and covered almost 100 meter before being stopped by a puddle making it difficult for the car to tread ahead. Now the the watch tractor was almost 50 meter ahead and the tigress was further 50 meter.

Earlier Attack of Tiger on the Tractor

 

We gathered courage and moved on our feet towards the tractor the only semblance of safety in pitch dark. We swiftly reached the tractor and climbed atop it. There were two people there keeping a constant vigil on tigress. They flashed very powerful torch in the field and we saw an outline of a mouth panting in the dark. Though it was not very clear in the dark but the feeling was exhilarating.

Though it was a unique experience but not totally satisfying. It was thrilling in its nature that we lay there unprotected probably just 20-30 meters away from the tigress. But we were determined and promised ourselves that will visit again the next day if the tigress remains there and doesn't venture out in forest.

The Next day

We got thumbs up that she was still there the next day, though this time just inside the forest boundary. We left for the village in afternoon and reached there in twenty minutes. We parked our car just outside the forest park boundary and entered there barefoot. And just inside the boundary she was resting in small muddy pool with her head visible. She turned her gaze towards us probably as curious as were we. It was that mischievousness in her eyes which was totally captivating. She seems aloof of the fact that so many people were there guarding her. This time it was clear that we were witnessing one of the most magnificent gift of nature, the queen of jungle without a worry of this world.

Our team

On our way through the City

The Last  "Sardar" Village before Jungle

Tiger Resting in the Pool

After a while she got up in her own playful mood and started roaming here and there. It had a charm of a child engrossed in her own activities. But this time the officials were more concerned about us and told us to wait outside the boundary near our vehicle in case of any advance movement. They were worried that she might again cross the boundary and go towards her prey that was lying in the sugarcane field. We were told that they have asked for elephants who will be arriving the next from Dudhwa National Park to push her back into the forest.

While returning it was not just the charm of tigress in my mind but also a thought that how we have intruded in the territory of wild life and now we have to protect it like a liability while treasure lies beyond.